Sunday, May 2, 2010

Reicpe: Rust

It has been very nearly three months to the day since I got a wild hair and started this blog. All in all, it’s been tremendous fun –and a bit of work at times as well, but good work, if there is such a thing.

Over the course of these posts, I’ve had a number of (quite kind and entirely too generous) comments on my rust technique. That’s a relief, really, as you’re going to see a bit more of it before the Arrugginiti finally reach their full muster. While I’ve posted my rust recipe before, I noted recently in a post by Magilla Gurilla that very often a step seems to be missing, or a part of an explanation seems misplaced in online posts of this nature. After reading what Mags had to say, I thought to myself, “hm. That’s true.” There is always a distinct difference between theory and practice. For that reason, I tried to step back, and to slow myself down a bit while painting the Terminator Champion (who needs a name) from Friday’s Hailed vs. Hated post.

Here’s how I posted that recipe originally, but this time I’ve provided additional editorial comments as an aside in brackets [like this]:

RUST RECIPE: It's largely a Foundation affair. I prime the model black and then base the entire model in Scorched Brown. [One introductory note: the model will tend to look horrible during these steps, but don’t despair. I have a painting philosophy that I’ve come to think of as “clean as you go.” It’s messy work in the beginning, but the model will start to look better after about half way. Moreover, each next step after the rust is completed will start to help “clean up” the mess you’ve made previously.]

This is followed by stippled layers of Dark Flesh (generous)…

then Macharius Solar Orange (less so)…

then Tauspet Ochre…

and finally a scarce stipple of Iyanden Darksun [indeed. The model looks terrible at this point].

In the past I've used a very old brush for these steps, but these days I use the same corner on a piece foam from the back of an old blister pack and work very, very hastily. I don't pause to let the layers dry between colors, giving the whole mess a peculiar, muddy effect. [So far. So good. You will see the corner of the foam that I’ve used pictured next to the model. Although in the recipe I suggest an either/or dynamic between brush and foam, in reality, I use a bit of both. Because I assemble my models in their entirety before painting, I tend to find a few corners hard to reach with the foam –which needs a “dabbing” action to work properly. For those corners, I break out the old brush that is significantly better at reaching those hard spots.]

Once the stippling is finished and dried, I lightly drybrush Mithril Silver toward the edges. [The recipe calls for Mithril Silver, but I’m actually using Chainmail here. I don’t know why. I think that I must use either depending on which is nearest. In the end, the effect is nearly identical. The contrast, however, may be a bit more severe with Mithril, and the model will tend to look a bit more crisp and/or bright. For this guy, that’s just as well, because I wanted to keep the overall look a little more murky.]

Finally, I wash the model with a very thin mix of the old Chestnut Ink and a Green/Purple Ink combination. Failing that, a wash of Sepia and then a mixed wash of Green and Purple together should have a nearly identical effect. As ever, the wash ties the colors together a little but, as importantly, it also brings some shading into the recesses of the model. [For the final model, I’ve actually done this step twice. The second wash was much, much lighter and had a much more Chestnutt in the mix to keep the rust, well, rusty.]

With regard to that Green and Purple mixture, the idea is to blend them somewhat so that they don't appear either too green or too purple, and the overall effect is something like a very strange, deep black -which is ideal for metals and I use something similar on all my silvers. In fact, I now never wash straight black over any silver color. This last step was inspired by Rune Nielsen, and while his site seems to have slowly gone cold this last year or so, I highly recommend a peek at his Tutorial on Metallics [the Hman had a question in the comments section that I thought would best be dealt here. If one person asks, I'm sure others are thinking the same thing. So. I've actually mixed a combination of the purple and green ink in a separate pot that I keep for almost all of my metallics. I then add just a little of the chestnut to this original mixture for my rust. As such, they go on in one layer. Also for that reason, I've taken the photo with the purple and green to one side and the chestnut on the other. Cheers].

If the coloring is too muted after the wash, I go back with a very dry brush of Mithril [or Chainmail] again to bring the edges forward –very, very light at this point. [truth be told, it’s not really a dry brush in this case. I went back and very lightly hit the edges, but the drybrush tends to bring back a chalky feel. Instead, I kept the brush reasonably wet with paint, but worked only at the extreme edges and very, very lightly for a more crisp bit of detailing. Moreover, I did this last highlight as one of the very last steps in the entire model, so it's not pictured here until the last photo. As it's a "tidying" step, it appropriately belongs toward the end of the process, which leads me to...]

One final note: I then went in and started to block off the big sections of color with either a dark base color or a mid tone (red). Up until this point, as you can see, I’ve not worried much about getting paint all over the place. These steps, then, start to clean the model –which continues really until the very last moment. All of that, however, must be the topic of another post, as this one is already really quite long.

This guy is still on my WIP desk, as his banner is currently getting some very intense TLC as suggested by Magilla Gurilla, Dverning, Rabidchild, and HotPanda. I’m in the processes of attempting to work their very keen, specific, and helpful suggestions into that one, tiny space. We’ll see how that turns out, hopefully for Friday. Fingers crossed.


Big Jim said...

Excellent, I will be using this technique when I get back to my Necrons!

Thanks for sharing this with us!


theHman said...

So do you mix the green and purple washes together then paint the mix on the mini?

Or do you do a quick paint of green and then a quick paint of purple while the green is still wet?

Brian said...

@ Big Jim. a pleasure. I'd like to see how this turns out on Necrons. Great idea that they should be rusty and old.

@ the Hman. Good question. I have a mixture of purple and green in a separate pot that I keep for almost all my metallics. I didn't photo it because it would just look like a spare pot. ha. Anyway, to this original mixture, I then add the dab of chestnut for the rust. As such, it all goes on in one layer (although in this case I did it twice -the second coat with a little more chestnut). Thanks again for the question. Hope this helps.

Grizzled Gamer said...

Great tutorial!
The fact that you not only took pictures but explained every step means that even a painting knucklehead like me can follow it and hopefully repeat the steps.
Also, I am really glad that you mentioned what to use instead of Citadel Inks which have gone away...
great job!

Joe Gekko said...

Nice tut! If this is anything to go by, I'm really looking forward to you doing one for your verdigris (hint, hint...)

How do you think the Liquitex inks would fare compared to the old GW inks? I'm just about out of Chestnut Ink... I use it on all my gold, and my homebrew chapter uses an awful lot of gold.

Rushputin said...

It's hard to believe you've only been doing this for three months. It's easily one of the most prolific and highest quality hobby blog I've encountered!

Brian said...

@ Mags. Thanks, my good man. I was devastated when they binned the inks. Honestly. I spent ages trying to figure out how to use the inks and now...

Still, Devlan Mud is an amazing color. No doubt. I've not yet really worked up my confidence with too much of the other colors, but it's starting to fall in to place. I suspect the learning curve will be steep when my ink pots finally run dry.

@ Hey Joe. I've never used Liquitex, but I'll have good nose around and see if I can't give it a bash. Moreover, you've inspired me. I'll be working on that Verdigris (in the same manner as this step by step) for next Sunday.

@ Rush. Thank you, kindly. My goal has been to put out solid quality and decent quantity. I'm pleased to know that you've been enjoying the efforts.

Rabidchild said...

Fantastic. You've really nailed it with this one. I am a fan of that big ogre cleaver. Very nice indeed. I foresee some rusted melee weapons in my Night Lords' future.

I agree with Rushputin; quality stuff this. You have a clear voice in your writing, they grey and white is easy to read and the quality and quantity of your posts is excellent. You've inspired me to add more writing to my own posts in an effort to develop my own voice. Good work sir.

Brent said...

Yea, you're pretty great.

(Frankly, I'm a bit disgusted by it all.)

This is the type of tutorial I asked about in one of my random comments I've splattered on your blog like bird droppings.

(Did I say that out loud? Ssshh!)

I've been wanting to try out a stippling technique for awhile, but I never found one that yielded a result I like. This is pretty inspiring, and I'm going to try it out on a test mini, literally right now. I need a break painting clean lines on my Storm Raven.

If you've a mind, come check out the results on Strictly Average in a few days, let me know how I did.

Keep up the good work!

(Don't tell him that!)


Brian said...

@ Rabidchild. Cheers mate. You are too kind.

@ Brent. Thanks. I only saw this comment after responding to your other post, ha. Please ignore the part where I direct you to the post you've just finished reading.

I've added Strictly Average to the blogroll and I'm really looking forward to seeing your work. I hope this helps.